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Christian Francis Roth, the early-’90s designer of the iconic Crayola crayon dress, returned to New York’s fashion scene last fall with a new line, Francis by Christian Francis Roth, after an eight-year hiatus. Although the Manhattan native might have aged since his fashion debut at 21, his collection is still young at heart. “I first got the idea looking at my 16-year-old daughter, Annie. She and her friends travel in packs and have a similar look. They’re like little gangs,” Roth says. A few weeks later, he watched Walter Hill’s 1979 cult classic, The Warriors. He knew he was on to something from the opening sequence, which depicts New York City gangs, each dressed in their signature uniforms, boarding the subway. “I almost choked when I saw it,” says Roth, who for his spring collection created six high school cliques, which hit the runway in a retro gymnasium in NoLIta. First came the After- School Specials (Upper West Side prepsters), then the Lace- ups (jocks), the Downtown Locals (graffiti-happy hipsters), the Twill Seekers (Upper East Side WASPs), the Pieces of 8th (inspired by St. Marks Place in the 1980s), and finally the
Tie Breakers (twisted black-tie prom wear).
Each set included spirited riffs on classic high school stereotypes, such as oversize crest patches on blue blazers; strappy silk dresses designed from a ’70s NYC subway map (a ringer for one shown in The Warriors); shifts with drawings by graffiti artist Meres; and a blown-up interpretation of Lacoste’s signature alligator and Ralph Lauren’s Polo pony in a brawl. “We got a call from Lacoste after the show,” Roth says, “but when I told them we weren’t producing the shirt and that it was just for fun, they asked me for a souvenir!”