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It looks like more and more skincare products are including some form of Vitamin C in their formulations for obvious reasons of attracting customers who believe in their touted merits in skin rejuvenation and wrinkle reduction. However, which is the true Vitamin C, which are the derivatives and what type of vitamin C really works?
Here, I’ll take a look at the difference types of Vitamin C and find out how well they perform.
L-Ascorbic Acid
L-Ascorbic Acid is known to be the only natural form of Vitamin C in skin care products. It is a potent antioxidant proven to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, strengthens the capillaries and cell walls, as well as protect both beta-carotene and Vitamin E from oxidation. While it is easily absorbed by the skin and can stay for up to 72 hours, L-ascorbic acid can be irritating to those with sensitive skin. In addition, it is highly unstable and oxidize rapidly. Hence, it should be prepared and stored properly, otherwise Vitamin C in its oxidized form is of no benefit and actually promotes free radical formation causing damage to collagen and DNA. Skinceutical’s latest Phloretin CF and Cellex-C High Potency Serum are examples of products containing this ingredient.
Magnesuim Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesuim Ascorbyl Phosphate or MAP in short, is a water-soluble Vitamin C derivative that is said to have the same potential as Vitamin C to boost skin collagen synthesis but is effective in significantly lower concentrations. Because it is a water soluble Vitamin C derivative, which is stable in aqueous solution, and hence, can be easily formulated in skin care products. In addition, it is non-irritating and is thus, gentler for those with sensitive skin. However, products containing MAP should still be kept away from sunlight as the ingredient does degrade over time. The Body Shop Vitamin C Skin Boost is an example of a product containing this ingredient which has received rave reviews.
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptides
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide complex is a water stable, soluble form of Vitamin C, said to be able to penetrate the outer layers of the skin. From what I’ve gathered, it’s extremely stable and readily available to convert to Vitamin C when applied to the skin. The John Masters Organics Anti-Aging Face Serum I’m currently using contains this and I have to say it’s great for skin rejuvenation.
Ascorbyl Methyl Silanol
Ascorbyl Methyl Silanol is a Vitamin C derivative and is known to be more stable. However, reports have indicated that it cannot be absorbed by the skin nor will it convert into L-ascorbic acid by the skin. Despite so, I have actually seen visible improvement when I used TDF C Scape Serum which contains 10% of this ingredient.